Christmas in Paris: Markets, Lights, and Where to Stay
Christmas markets, holiday lights, and department store window displays: what to see in Paris in December, and which neighborhood to stay in to enjoy it all without spending your evening on the subway.
Paris in December is a city that shifts gears: store windows come to life, the streets light up starting in mid-November, and holiday huts pop up in the gardens. It’s also one of the times of year when Parisian hotels fill up the fastest. Here’s where to go, when, and which neighborhood offers the best experience.
Must-Visit Christmas Markets
The Tuileries — the largest. Set in the garden that connects the Louvre to Place de la Concorde, the La Magie de Noël market features about a hundred craft booths, an ice rink, a Ferris wheel, and a full-fledged carnival. It traditionally opens in mid-November and closes in early January. It’s the most family-friendly and, by far, the most crowded: come on a weekday or in the early afternoon if you want to be able to move around.
Notre-Dame — the most intimate. Square René Viviani, Quai Montebello in the 5th arrondissement, across from the cathedral. Smaller, more artisanal, and much quieter than the Tuileries. It’s usually held from late November through late December, so earlier than the others.
The Champs-Élysées — the long-awaited return. After nearly ten years away, a Christmas market is set to return to the lower end of the avenue for the winter of 2026–2027. The details were still being finalized at the time of this writing: be sure to check before making a special trip there.
Other, more niche markets pop up every year in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montmartre, and the Marais. Our reception desk has an up-to-date list.
The holiday lights: mid-November through early January
It may be the most beautiful sight of the season—and it’s free. The Champs-Élysées, Place Vendôme, and more than 150 Parisian streets are lit up starting in mid-November and remain so until early January. The lighting of the avenue is marked by an opening ceremony, during which the avenue is closed to traffic for the occasion.
When it comes to store windows, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps Haussmann remain the two must-see destinations—you can admire their displays from the sidewalk without having to go inside or wait in line. La Samaritaine, BHV Marais, and Le Bon Marché round out the tour.
Which hotel should you stay at to enjoy this?
For the Tuileries and the department stores, the central Right Bank is ideal. Our hotel near the Louvre Museum puts you just a few minutes away from the garden, and our hotel near the Marais is within easy reach of La Samaritaine, the BHV, and Les Halles.
When it comes to the storefronts on Rue Haussmann, nothing beats the 9th arrondissement:the Hôtel Léman Opéra is a ten-minute walk from Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and our hotel on the Grands Boulevards is right next door.
For the Notre-Dame market, our hotel in the Latin Quarter, on Rue Saint-Jacques, is just a few hundred meters from Square René Viviani. It’s a five-minute walk there, which makes all the difference when it’s cold.
For the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe, our hotel in western Paris is the closest one, located in the 17th arrondissement.
For a snowy village atmosphere, our hotel near the Sacré-Cœur —La Butte in December, with its illuminated streets and view of the city—offers a truly special experience.
Three Seasonal Tips
Book early. Parisian hotels start filling up as early as October for weekends in December, and New Year’s Eve bookings go even faster. Waiting until the last minute can be expensive in December, unlike during other times of the year.
Plan for short days. It gets dark around 5 p.m. The best plan is to save the museums for the afternoon and the lights for the end of the day—not the other way around.
Plan ahead for restaurant closures. Many restaurants are closed on December 24 and 25, or offer a special menu that must be reserved in advance. Our list of restaurants near our hotels will give you a good starting point, but be sure to check their hours specifically for those two evenings.
Visiting with your family or in a group
December is the season for reunions—and therefore for multiple reservations. For bookings of more than three rooms, our dedicated service will create a customized proposal, which may be split between two of our nearby properties: everything is explained in our article on booking multiple rooms in Paris.
And if you're still unsure about which area to choose, our guide to where to stay in Paris covers the eight arrondissements where we have locations. Discover our 3-star hotels in Paris and book directly to get the best rate.
