Christmas in Paris: Markets, Lights, and Where to Stay
Christmas markets, festive lights, and department store windows: what to see in Paris in December, and which neighborhood to stay in so you don't spend your evening on the metro.
In December, Paris takes on a different atmosphere: store windows come to life, the streets light up starting in mid-November, and wooden chalets spring up in the gardens. It’s also one of the times of year when Parisian hotels fill up the fastest. Here’s where to go, when, and which neighborhood will let you make the most of it.
The Christmas Markets You Should Check Out
The Tuileries — the largest. Set in the garden connecting the Louvre to Place de la Concorde, the La Magie de Noël market features around a hundred craft chalets, an ice rink, a Ferris wheel, and a full-scale funfair. It traditionally opens in mid-November and closes in early January. It is the most family-friendly and by far the busiest: come on a weekday or early in the afternoon if you want plenty of room to move around.
Notre-Dame — the most intimate. Square René Viviani, Quai Montebello in the 5th arrondissement, across from the cathedral. Smaller, more artisanal, and much quieter than the Tuileries. It usually runs from late November to late December, so it closes earlier than the others.
The Champs-Élysées — a much-anticipated return. After nearly ten years away, a Christmas market is set to return to the lower end of the avenue for the winter of 2026–2027. Details were still being finalized at the time of writing: check before making a special trip.
Other, more low-key markets are held every year in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montmartre, and the Marais. Our receptions have the most up-to-date list.
The lights: mid-November through early January
This may be the best part of the season, and it's free. The Champs-Élysées, Place Vendôme, and more than 150 Parisian streets are lit up from mid-November through early January. The lighting of the avenue's lights is marked by an opening night, during which the avenue is closed to traffic for the occasion.
As for store windows, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps Haussmann remain the two must-sees—their displays can be admired from the street, without going inside or waiting in line. La Samaritaine, the BHV Marais, and Le Bon Marché round out the tour.
Which hotel to stay at
For the Tuileries and the department stores, the central Right Bank is ideal. Our hotel near the Louvre Museum is just a few minutes from the garden, and our hotel near the Marais is within easy reach of La Samaritaine, the BHV, and Les Halles.
When it comes to the windows on Boulevard Haussmann, nothing beats the 9th arrondissement: the Hôtel Léman Opéra is a ten-minute walk from Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and our hotel on the Grands Boulevards is right next door.
For the Notre-Dame market, our hotel in the Latin Quarter, on Rue Saint-Jacques, is a few hundred meters from Square René Viviani. It’s a five-minute walk downhill, which makes all the difference in cold weather.
Our hotel in western Paris, located in the 17th arrondissement, is the closest to the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe.
For a village-like atmosphere under the snow, our hotel near the Sacré-Cœur—the Butte in December, with its illuminated streets and views of the city—offers a truly special experience.
Three Seasonal Tips
Book early. Parisian hotels fill up starting in October for weekends in December, and New Year's Eve bookings fill up even faster. Unlike other times of the year, waiting until the last minute can be costly in December.
Plan for short days. It gets dark around 5 p.m. The best plan is to save the museums for the afternoon and the lights for the end of the day—not the other way around.
Plan ahead for closures. Many restaurants are closed on December 24 and 25, or offer a set menu that must be reserved in advance. Our restaurant recommendations near our hotels will give you a good starting point, but be sure to check the opening hours for those two evenings specifically.
Visiting as a family or a group
December is the season for get-togethers, which means there are often multiple bookings. For bookings of more than three rooms, our dedicated service puts together a single proposal, which may include accommodations at two of our nearby hotels: everything is explained in our article on booking multiple rooms in Paris.
And if you're still unsure about the area, our guide to the best neighborhoods to stay in Paris reviews the eight arrondissements where we're located. Discover our 3-star hotels in Paris and book directly to get the best rate.
