Christmas in Paris: Markets, Lights, and Where to Stay
Christmas markets, holiday lights, and department store window displays: what to see in Paris in December—and which neighborhood to visit to enjoy it all without spending the whole evening on the metro.
In December, Paris takes on a different vibe: store windows come to life, the streets are lit up starting in mid-November, and wooden huts pop up in the gardens. It’s also one of the times of year when Parisian hotels fill up the fastest. Here’s where to go, when, and which neighborhood offers the best experience.
Christmas Markets You Should Check Out
The Tuileries — the largest. Set up in the garden connecting the Louvre to Place de la Concorde, the La Magie de Noël market features about a hundred craft booths, an ice-skating rink, a Ferris wheel, and a full-fledged amusement park. It traditionally opens in mid-November and closes in early January. It’s the most family-friendly and by far the most crowded: come on a weekday or in the early afternoon if you want to get around easily.
Notre-Dame — the most intimate one. Square René Viviani, Quai Montebello in the 5th arrondissement, across from the cathedral. Smaller, more artisanal, and much quieter than the Tuileries. It’s usually held from late November to late December, so it closes earlier than the others.
The Champs-Élysées — the long-awaited return. After nearly ten years of absence, a Christmas market is expected to return to the lower section of the avenue for the winter of 2026–2027. As of this writing, the details of the event have not yet been finalized: please check before making a special trip there.
Other smaller, more intimate markets are held every year in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montmartre, and the Marais. Our front desks have an up-to-date list.
The Luminarie: from mid-November to early January
It may be the most beautiful spectacle of the season—and it’s free. The Champs-Élysées, Place Vendôme, and over 150 Parisian streets light up starting in mid-November and remain illuminated until early January. The lighting of the avenue marks the occasion for an opening night celebration, with the avenue closed to traffic for the event.
As for the store windows, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps Haussmann remain the two must-see stops—you can admire their displays from the sidewalk, without having to go inside or wait in line. La Samaritaine, BHV Marais, and Le Bon Marché round out the tour.
Which hotel is the best place to enjoy it?
For the Tuileries Gardens and the department stores, the central Right Bank is ideal. Our hotel near the Louvre Museum puts you just a few minutes away from the gardens, and our hotel near the Marais is within easy reach of La Samaritaine, the BHV, and Les Halles.
When it comes to the storefronts on Boulevard Haussmann, nothing beats the 9th arrondissement:the Hôtel Léman Opéra is a ten-minute walk from Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and our hotel on the Grands Boulevards is right next door.
For the Notre-Dame market, our hotel in the Latin Quarter, on Rue Saint-Jacques, is just a few hundred meters from Square René Viviani. It’s a five-minute walk, which makes all the difference when it’s cold.
For the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe, our hotel in western Paris is the closest one, located in the 17th arrondissement.
For a snowy village atmosphere, our hotel near the Sacré-Cœur—La Butte in December, with its illuminated alleyways and views of the city—is a special experience.
Three Seasonal Tips
Book early. Parisian hotels start filling up as early as October for December weekends, and New Year's Eve bookings sell out even sooner. In December, unlike other times of the year, waiting until the last minute can be costly.
Expect short days. It gets dark around 5 p.m. The best plan is to save the museums for the afternoon and the light displays for the end of the day—not the other way around.
Plan ahead for closures. Many restaurants are closed on December 24 and 25, or offer a special set menu that requires advance reservations. Our list of restaurants near our hotels will give you a starting point, but be sure to check their hours for those two evenings.
Come with your family or as a group
December is the season for get-togethers—and therefore for multiple reservations. For bookings of more than three rooms, our dedicated service will put together a single package, which may be split between two of our nearby hotels: everything is explained in our article on booking multiple rooms in Paris.
And if you're still undecided about which area to choose, our guide to the best neighborhoods to stay in Paris highlights the eight arrondissements where we have locations. Discover our 3-star hotels in Paris and book directly to get the best rate.
